Balaton, the “Hungarian Sea”, is the largest lake in Central Europe and a popular summer vacation spot, loved for its gentle beaches, vineyards and historical charm.
Departure from Fonyód
Fonyód is a charming lakeside town on the southern coast, with picturesque viewpoints, especially the Fonyód hill, which offers a sweeping view of the lake. I arrived here from Balatonboglár by train; and I reached the ten o’clock ferry.
Once on board, you can enjoy a stunning view of the lake and the panorama of the approaching Badacsony mountains. The deck is open for those who want to soak up the breeze and take photos, while shaded seating is available inside.
Hike from Badacsonytomaj
The tour that captures the heart of the area leads from the charming Badacsonytomaj to the quiet village of Nemesgulács. This trail winds through lush forests, gentle hills and vineyards, making it a fantastic escape into nature with just enough challenge to keep things interesting.
The small town lies between the sparkling waters of Lake Balaton and the volcanic slopes of Badacsony Mountain. Badacsonytomaj is known for its vineyards, wine cellars and unique volcanic rock formations.
Following the blue trail markers, moving away from the lake, we reach the shady forests covering the foot of Badacsony Hill. Here, tall oaks, pines and chestnut trees offer cool shade, with birds chirping and rustling leaving the main soundtrack.
The climb to Badacsony Mountain can be a bit steep in places, but it is worth it. There are vantage points along the way where you can stop and catch your breath while taking in the incredible views.
The Kisfaludy Lookout is the best place here – named after the Hungarian poet Sándor Kisfaludy, it is located at the top of the mountain and offers a sweeping view of Lake Balaton and the surrounding green hills. It was clear weather; you could see the whole Balaton from here.
Gulács-hill: A hidden gem
Passing the vineyards, the path turns back into the forest and leads to the smaller cone-shaped Gulács-shaped hill. This part of the trail is peaceful, with fewer hikers.
Although Gulács-hegy is smaller than Badacsony, it has its own charm. The trails here are narrower and more rustic, weaving through thick trees and opening up to quiet little lookouts where you can enjoy the view of the valley below. It is an intimate environment less affected by tourism, thus creating a real connection with nature. The road to the top is sometimes difficult; you have to cross a stone stream.
Down to Nemesgulács
It is easy to descend from Gulács to Nemesgulács, a small village surrounded by vineyards, fields and gentle hills. As you get closer, the landscape opens up and you are surrounded by orchards and farmland.
A quiet, friendly place with a few traditional houses and a relaxed atmosphere. It’s the perfect place to relax after a hike. After the hustle and bustle of Badacsonytomaj and the adventure of the trail, Nemesgulács is an ideal, calm end to the day. From there I took a three-hour train back to Budapest.